Lawn Mowing Facts and Tips

• Lawns that are properly mowed are actually healthier than an irregularly mowed lawn
• A properly mowed lawn is thicker and has a deeper root structure, making it more durable and better equipped to combat weeds, insects and diseases.
• Mowing mistakes can result in discolored grass, brown spots and even lawn damage
• Actively growing lawns should be mowed at least once a week
• A drought sticken lawn will turn a dark gray-green color. Water immediately.
• Grass clippings left on the lawn provide nutrients and help in moisture retention.
• In the heat of summer, a longer cut of grass will require less water and offer shade to deter weed growth during the hot months.
• Frequest mowing, mowing when the grass is dry, and proper fertilization of the lawn is the best way to prevent excess thatch buildup....

E-mail  -  services@lostlakelawncare.com

©2008 - Lost Lake Lawn Care

Reasons to fertilize your lawn areas

     A well-planned, reasonable fertility program is a basic part of proper lawn maintenance. Lawngrasses that are under-fertilized tend to be thin with poor color. Lawns that are over-fertilized, especially with high levels of soluble nitrogen fertilizer, tend to have thatch problems and are more prone to insect and disease damage.

     The goal of a good fertility program is to produce a reasonable amount of top growth, but not at the expense of root growth or carbohydrate storage. A good root system is the key factor to a healthy lawn.

Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K).

     Lawn fertilizers typically contain these three nutrients, although other nutrients may be included in small amounts. The three numbers on the fertilizer bag represent the percentages of N, P, & K-in that order. The back of the fertilizer bag should show the guaranteed analysis. Always follow the recommended application rates suggested by the manufacturer on the bag.

The grass plant needs more nitrogen than any other nutrient.

     Nitrogen is part of the chlorophyll molecule and helps give the lawn its deep green color. Nitrogen also tends to promote high leaf growth rates at the expense of root growth. Phosphorus is responsible for the energy transfer systems in the plant and is generally required in much smaller amounts than nitrogen or potassium on an established lawn. The exception is for newly established lawns by seeding, sodding, or sprigging, when the need of phosphorus is higher in the new plant. Potassium has a lot to do with good cell wall development and the plant's ability to withstand stress, disease, and insect damage.

Look for slow-release forms of nitrogen.

    The two basic forms of nitrogen that can be used as a fertilizer are organic and inorganic. The most commonly used inorganic forms of nitrogen in fertilizers are ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate. Both are soluble, quickly available forms of nitrogen and both tend to produce a fast increase in leaf growth for a fairly  short period of time. These are cheaper forms of nitrogen and are found in less costly fertilizers.

     More and more, the slowly soluble or slow-release organic forms of nitrogen are being recommended by turf experts. These include sulfur-coated urea, ureaformaldehyde, I.B.D.U., methylene urea, natural organics, and resin-coated urea. These tend to produce a lawn with good color without excessive leaf growth. They are designed to meter-out the nitrogen over a longer period of time. The slow-release forms of nitrogen are more costly than the soluble quick-release forms, but do not have to be applied as often.

What fertilizer should I use?

     Most turf experts recommend that a lawn fertilizer should have at least one-half of its nitrogen in one of the slow-release forms mentioned above. In most cases, both cool season and warm season grasses will do well when a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio of N-P-K is used on an established lawn. Some analysis numbers that meet these ratios are:

· 12-4-8

· 15-5-10

· 16-4-8

· 21-7-4

· 20-5-10

How much fertilizer should I use?

    Fertilizer application rates should be as low as possible and still produce a high quality lawn. Over-fertilization weakens your lawn and causes excess leaf growth. As a general rule, if the amount of Nitrogen (N is the first number in the analysis) is between 5 and 12, the application rate should be 8 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If the N number is between 12 and 18, the application rate should be 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Any N number over 19 should be applied at a rate of 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Always follow the recommended rate stated on the bag by the manufacturer.

When should I fertilize?

     The best time to fertilize a lawn is when it is actively growing. For Northern lawns (cool season grasses), begin the fertilization program as the grass begins to grow in the spring and reduce applications as the weather gets hotter. When cooler weather returns in the fall, the lawn can again be fertilized. A late fall fertilizer application after the first frost can increase lawn quality the following spring

E-mail  -  services@lostlakelawncare.com

©2008 - Lost Lake Lawn Care

Lost Lake Lawn Care Crabgrass and Weed Control Program Tips

     Crabgrass gets its name because it sprawls from a central root low across the ground. It can become a problem quickly because it is able to grow vigorously in hot, dry conditions. Before dying in the fall, a single weed can distribute thousands of seeds which will be ready to germinate in spring. Crabgrass is a problem, but you can rid your lawn of the weeds easily with our plan.

     Higher mowing encourages lawn grasses to shade and prevent the germination of crabgrass seeds. A deep, thick lawn seldom contains much crabgrass. You can discourage crabgrass by mowing at the proper height for your grass type.

     Weeds are better adapted to adverse growing conditions than most lawn grasses. Shallow and infrequent watering will only weaken the roots of your grass, while allowing the crabgrass to thrive and take over. Water lawns deeply and less frequently. When you water, wet the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches. This usually requires the equivalent of ½-1 inch of rainfall.

     Lost Lake Lawn Care will apply Scotts Halts Crabgrass Preventer or Scotts Turf Builder Fertilizer with Halts Crabgrass Preventer in the early spring (before temperatures reach 65 degrees F) to feed your grass while providing a barrier that prevents crabgrass seeds from germinating. Call us today to discuss you lawn care maintenance needs and set up an annual lawn program to beautify your lawn and properties....

Say Goodbye to Dandelions and weeds with out weed/lawn maintenance programs.

• Spring/Summer/Fall Weed Control Applications
• Scheduled Lawn Mowing and Trimming Services

For Dandelions Lost Lake Lawn Care recommends

Apply Corn Gluten Meal
     Here is the ultimate organic weed and feed. Developed by Iowa State University, corn gluten meal (CGM) is a yellow powder created as a by-product of milling corn, is primarily used in farm animal feeds and dog food. It is also used as a "pre-emergent" weed control for lawns. A pre-emergent, such as corn gluten meal, prevents roots from forming during seed germination. If a root can't grow, the seedling is unable to obtain water or nourishment from the soil. Thus, it will dry up and die.

     To control dandelions, it is best applied to the lawn about 4 to 6 weeks before weeds germinate. If you missed the deadline, don't worry. Not all weeds sprout at the same time, so you may want to apply corn gluten meal a few times during the growing season. Best of all, the nitrogen in the meal will keep your lawn green and healthy. By the way, corn gluten meal is not the same cornmeal you make muffins with. Cornmeal for baking is made by grinding dried corn kernels.

For those of you who prefer Dandelions

     Dandelion wine is an actual drink that is made from the blossoms of the humble dandelion. Below is a recipe from an old cookbook that dates from the early 1900's. (Be certain that there are no pesticides or herbicides on the plants, such as weed killer!)

     "Four good quarts of dandelion blossoms, four pounds of sugar, six oranges, five lemons. Wash dandelion blossoms and place them in an earthenware crock. Pour five quarts of boiling water over them and let stand 36 hours. Then strain through a muslin bag, squeezing out all moisture from dandelions. Put the strained juice in a deep stone crock or jug and add to it the grated rind and juice of the six oranges and five lemons. Tie a piece of cheese-cloth over the top of jug and stand it in a warm kitchen about one week, until it begins to ferment. Then stand away from stove in an outer kitchen or cooler place, not in the cellar, for three months. At the end of three months put in bottles. This is a clear, amber, almost colorless liquid. A pleasant drink of medicinal value.

     For dandelion wine made with yeast: "Four quarts of dandelion blossoms. Pour over them four quarts of boiling water; let stand 24 hours, strain and add grated rind and juice of two oranges and two lemons, four pounds of granulated sugar and two tablespoonfuls of home-made yeast. Let stand one week, then strain and fill bottles."

Disclaimer: if you make dandelion wine using either of these recipes, you do so at your own risk.
 

E-mail  -  services@lostlakelawncare.com

©2008 - Lost Lake Lawn Care

“What is lawn aeration???”

    Lawn aeration involves the removal of small soil plugs or cores out of the lawn. Although hand aerators are available, most aeration is done mechanically with a machine having hollow tines or spoons mounted on a disk or drum. Known as a core aerator, it extracts 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter cores of soil and deposits them on your lawn. Aeration holes are typically 1-6 inches deep and 2-6 inches apart. Other types of aerators push solid spikes or tines into the soil without removing a plug (spiking). These are not as effective because they can contribute to compaction. Core aeration is a recommended lawn care practice on compacted, heavily used turf and to control thatch buildup.R

Reasons to aerate -

• Your lawn is heavily used or driven upon on a frequent basis
• The thatch layer is in excess of 1/2 inch
• You have a lawn comprised of heavy clay soil.

     It is best to aerate during the latter part of summer when the lawn is coming out of summer dormancy and beginning vigorous growth again. Lawns will recover rapidly from aeration during this time frame. Competition from weeds is also minimal at this tim

What do I need to know:

• Lawns should be thoroughly watered two days prior to aeration to allow for easier penetration of the tines into the subsoil and to allow for the cores to pull out easily.
• Aeration controls thatch
• Lawns may be seeded and fertilized immediately after aeration.
• Soil cores are best left lying on the lawn. They work back into the grass in two to three weeks.
• Be sure to mark sprinkler heads, underground utilities, cable and septic lines prior to aeration.
• If your soil is heavily compacted, after aeration, apply 1/4 to 1/2 inch of compost over the lawn, raking it level over the entire area.

     A representation of the growth of grass after lawn aeration. The grass on the right has a much stronger root system resulting in more vigorous and healthier looking upper growth. With the addition of some fresh compost after aeration the soil may be amended to provide a better growing environment.

     Lost Lake Lawn Care provides lawn aeration services for both residential or commercial properties in the Sullivan County area of North Eastern Pennsylvania. Call us at
(717)-433-5418 for a free estimate and/or consultation regarding our lawn care services.

     E-mail us at services@lostlakelawncare.com

Lost Lake Lawn Care Services - for all your property maintenance needs.....

©2008 - Lost Lake Lawn Care